Sonic Mini 8K

Get a Phrozen sonic mini 8k for under $300. Consumables including resin will be another $75. If you want just DnD minis that’s your best bet. If you ALSO want to make terrain and/or dungeon tiles, a Bambu a1 or a1 mini is better IF you don’t mind compromising details. Or do what most of us do and pi

Für Figuren im Funko-Pop-Stil bis 500 Euro gibt es im Grunde zwei Wege. Resin-Drucker liefern die mit Abstand beste Detailqualität und sind deshalb für Figuren die erste Wahl. Modelle wie der Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra, der Anycubic Photon Mono M5s oder der Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K liegen preislich zwischen 3

Do not listen to this It’s definitely a big difference. If you cannot tell the difference you do not have good enough settings or high quality resin. With high quality printers like Phrozen 8K paired with their 8k resin you can literally get ”plastic” parts without layer lines. Most hobbyists who pr

Chipping in here as someone who does fdm and resin printing. Okay you need a resin printer. I have two brands anycubic and phrozen. Phrozen, I cannot recommended enough, I had to do little to no maintenance on it, I was cleaning it wrong and a bunch of other things. It’s gone four year without a sin

As others have already stated: anycubic doesn't do per layer settings which is an immediate no go for anybody wanting to print with difficult resins, print straight on the plate, which is a major no go, especially for a large format machine that costs more. As for the Phrozen mega 8kv2 / 8ks: I just

I have 3 working FDM printers(well, the WanHao is currently in storage because the entire hot-end is a mess of melted plastic... bit of a crash... ) and even more Resin printers. and yeah, Resin really have better print quality. 3D Printable Heilog Pin Up (NSFW) - 75mm plus 120mm (Presuported) by Ro

I’d second Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K (not 8KS, though). Also, their 8K resin is amazing. Anycubic or Elegoo are hit or miss; people are always complaining about those.

If the resin is leaking onto the fep then first order of business is to not print until you swap out the Nfep for a new one and make sure it's not leaking. That's like having a punctured tire and instead of fixing the puncture you keep pumping it up and wondering why you're running a flat. As for th

First question is, are you using anti-aliasing? To answer your question, yes smaller pixels help, as do thinner layer heights, but it’s up to a point. You will never get a 3d printed model to appear to have no lines. At least not without 3d/vertical AA, which no commercial slicer can do. As someone

Uvtools is a great free tool that allows you to set separate wait before print / rest after retract times for bottom and normal layers on already sliced print files for most phrozen and elegoo printers. I went from 30s bottom exposure times on my phorzen sonic mini 8k to 13s bottom exposure times on